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About allenh

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    Out of 2,000
  • Birthday 08/05/1968

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    records, hifi, old cars, most shiny stuff that sounds nice

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  1. Unlike solid state devices a valve is effectively dying from the moment you turn it on and the big drawback with valves is lifespan and reliability, yes some are better than others but two of the main things that were improved with solid state electronics was lifespan and reliability and valve technology hasn't changed as we are still using the same valve types designed in the early to mid part of the last century with the same basic materials and gases being used in their manufacture so I'm quite surprised AI tell you to do that. It's less of a problem with a small a signal valve over an output valve but it is still a concern. I'm not a manufacturer so they would have a lot more insight into this than I but it's something I have always understood to do and will continue to do, I do wonder though if they've looked at the hours life times claimed for a lot of these valves and taken them at face value but as I understand it yes they will still operate after long periods but not necessarily good enough for audio because it does very much depend on the accepted parameters for operation. Keeping the heaters powered is to help with warm up time so might be what they mean by keeping it powered 24/7 but I've never found that to be that effective unless you use your equipment for many hours every day and then you'll go through valves pretty quick anyway. People have tried all sorts of things with extending valve life over the years as they were expensive things in their heyday which is why I mentioned the fashion of turning the heaters off to extend their life which was pretty pointless if the amplifying part was worn out. All that said though there are many inconveniences I will put up with for audio and all of those to do with valves fall into that category because I love the sound. That's one of the upsides to me with valve amps in that you can alter the sound by simply changing valve manufacturer, it doesn't take long to work out who's valves you like and unless the basic circuit is a problem you can put your chosen valves in any amp that uses that valve type and it should tailor the amps sound more to your liking.
  2. Pretty much all HiFi prefers to be on 24/7 but I'm not sure I'd leave any valve equipment on 24/7, yes it keeps it in its operating window but valve lifespan will be severely compromised. Solid state yes and its preferable in my experience but valve no if only for the reduced lifespan. It used to be a fashion to drop the power to the heaters only when not in use but I'm not convinced that was particularly effective. My system is completely valve and I turn it all on about half an hour before I want to listen to it and go and pour a drink or make a coffee before the needle nestles gently onto record or my finger hits the play button.
  3. Nice, in a classically understated but effective way
  4. Yep I get grey for that one, weird indeed
  5. When I click on that I get white now not grey
  6. You might want to put the 1x4 on the bottom as I suspect that's less likely to collapse under load than the 2x4 and If you're going to empty it all to move it around just check the tightness of all the fixings as you'll be able to get at them. And yes I think the infamous photo that makes us all shudder was a 5x5 that had been assembled the wrong way up, the 2x4 is designed to go either way up but I don't suppose that's with a load of weight on the top of it. Edit This thing double posted in the same post, that's like crossing the streams, it must need a rest
  7. I'm glad I didn't cave in and sell my original, I've been asked many times on Discogs to sell it and always politely declined. It's numbered 1111 which I've always liked.
  8. Ordered, thanks for the heads up
  9. You don't need to spend a lot but you do need to spend what you do spend wisely but to do it you need to go used. The problem for most beginners is that the knowledge and experience that allows you to do that takes time and effort. Sadly as you're finding out all of those all in ones are utter utter rubbish and new there is no such thing as a cheap turntable or any hifi for that matter that will do the job without spending a reasonable sum so as @lastvaultboy rightly suggested read that beginners thread a couple of times (make sure you have plenty of snacks and drinks as it's going to be a long haul) and then head out to the local thrift stores, garage sales, craigs list, ebay etc etc and see what you can find for next to nothing. You might still buy some rubbish but I doubt it will be as bad as the rubbish you currently have and it will be a great learning experience
  10. I think a used Technics is all you're going to find that's any good, the P mounts tended to be made down to a price and be careful with some of the Technics as some have fixed tracking force. There is another option for you if it's shakiness of the hands that worries you, they're generally pretty expensive but if you can find any one of the Revox turntables is brilliant for anyone who struggles with a conventional table. They are direct drive, very high quality, built like a brick outhouse and linear tracking. The arm and whole drive system swings out of the way so you can put the record on, you then swing it back where it clicks into place and you move the cart across to where you want it using buttons that drive the servo's in the arm and then you hit the drop button and it lowers the cart down itself correctly and plays, if I had mine set up I'd take a video of it as it's a lot better than I'm describing, I let my daughter use mine when she was 3 years old as there was absolutely no risk of stylus and vinyl meeting when they shouldn't This is the one I have
  11. Just get a used hifi amplifier of receiver so thrift store, Craig's list, ebay, local classifieds, garage sales etc etc. but preferably somwhere you can take it back to if there's anything wrong and more importantly from someone who can show you how to hook it up I'm guessing you're in the US and this is in the Uk but something like this would be ideal.
  12. From the first table if the record damage was permanent i.e. it's repeatable every play then it sounds like the arm bearings bound up or moved out of true which caused the IGD and subsequent damage, it will have worn one side of the groove wall on the inner grooves. The rest just sounds like static, so an acrylic platter and a zero stat is the way I'd go and yes if you like the Ortofon sound then upgrading to the blue stylus would be worthwhile. And moving forward to check for tracking issues however they appear it's worth getting a HiFi set up record, they usually cost next to nothing and can be pretty useful.
  13. I may be reading your post wrong but I don't think what you're describing will work. Bluetooth speakers are designed to receive a signal from a bluetooth source like a phone or laptop and a receiver with bluetooth capability is designed the same way to receive a signal from a bluetooth phone or laptop and then play that signal via it's wired speakers not to transmit bluetooth to wireless bluetooth speakers. Bluetooth speakers would defeat the object of the receiver and wired speakers as they have their own amplifiers inside them and because of that apart from the really expensive ones they are not going to be anywhere near as good quality as the average receiver and wired speakers so you might as well play an mp3 file through them anyway rather than a record on a turntable. You would need some sort of device that could take an output like the tape output from your receiver and for it to transmit bluetooth to your bluetooth speakers but what's point? The only wireless thing I've found that is any good at all is the Google Chromecast audio which I use a few of to link up all the proper HiFi's in my house, it's way better than Sonos or any of the other wireless things I've found but still no good for sending the signal from a turntable to another audio system.
  14. The impedance and sensitivity is more important than the Watt rating because both speaker and amp manufacturers quote Watts in different ways and in some cases just lie. I'm simplifying quite a bit as all the measurements affect each other and obviously you cant use a 500W amp on 100W speakers so they need to be close and in general impedance is measured in Ohms and you want to make sure your amp can cope with the speaker load but 4 to 8 is normal with 6 Ohms being common now. And Sensitivity is measured in DB with the higher the number meaning they are easier to drive so a Valve (tube) amp is generally looking for speakers with a sensitivity in the low 90's but a very beefy solid state amp can drive speakers that have a sensitivity in the mid 80's. Most modern hifi amps want to see something around 87 or 88db but there is leeway either way.