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allenh

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allenh last won the day on November 30 2015

allenh had the most liked content!

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About allenh

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    Out of 2,000
  • Birthday 08/05/1968

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    UK
  • Interests
    records, hifi, old cars, most shiny stuff that sounds nice

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  1. Skipping when I walk up.

    Nothing you can do about the Crosley unless it's one of the slightly better component ones that have an adjustable weight on the back of the arm but even if it is it's not going to help unless it's wildly out, if it is as @Tardcore suggested get hold of a scale to see what its tracking at. Other then that you are looking at isolating the Crosley from whatever is making it bounce, be that the table its on or the floor. You can try putting the feet on some halved squash balls which quite often works with better turntables but it's going to be trial and error and TBH you're better just putting the Crosley in to landfill where it belongs as soon as you can get something better.
  2. Rotel RP 900, and Glass Platters?

    The Rotel is more likely to be Rega based than the Systemdek as yes good point they would have had parts like platters to use from the IIX range as suggested in that VA thread. That said I would be very surprised if even the Systemdek didn't use a modified Rega subplatter, everything about both the Rotel and Systemdek looks way too similar to be coincidental. Bottom line measure the platters centre hole and compare it to those quoted for the Rega and Systemdeks and certainly over here anyone that makes acrylic platters will cut the centre hole to any size you want And yes a quick search on ebay UK will show you the sheer depth and breadth of Rega upgrades available and yes I mentioned the two very different RP900's before, the original one being a true Rotel product.
  3. Rotel RP 900, and Glass Platters?

    Yes the Rotel is basically a Rega kit deck re badged Systemdek i and both use Rega parts like the sub platter so you should be able to use a platter designed for a Rega to go on it but check with the maker of the new platter what diameter the centre hole is. As far as I know the only non Rega parts are the plinth and platter on both the Rega and Systemdek I wouldn't bother with glass though if you are going to replace it go Delrin or Acrylic and a thick as you can.
  4. Firstly if you really want a Rega then buy a used Planer 3 or RP3 over a new RP1 every time if you can, the RP1 is a very cheap product dumbed down to try and compete with the lower end Projects overseas. And to help answer your questions: 1) With the standard Rega platters (glass, delrin, mdf etc.) you use a mat that acts as a slip mat much like on a DJ table which does allow you to flip records whilst they are spinning, now whether that's the correct thing to do is debatable and I personally favour turning the turntable off when changing records and the answer to stress on the belt (stress on the motor is minimal at worst) with any belt drive table on start up is to give the platter a helping spin by hand as you switch it on. And this is the best way to go if you upgrade to an acrylic platter where you don't use a mat at all. Also another plus point for the older but basically identical Rega tables is that the on/off switch is on the top where it should be. 2) refer to 1) really and there's no need to worry
  5. Crosley t200

    Same cheap plastic future landfill record wrecking crap as all the rest. Hangs head and emits deep very heavy sigh
  6. This. I went cheap and bought a one for $495 and it was a complete unmitigated disaster, I for one won't be making that sort of mistake again. From now on If the dialectic hasn't been hand rolled on the thighs of nubile hand maidens and the conductors hand drawn by a team of Yak's I'm out!!!
  7. Bought one of each, the Leah Senior LP and T Shirt this morning but shipping added a bit, $63Aus (£36) shipping
  8. Usually it will be the turntable and will be a bad ground and it's only really a big problem to fix if it's the wire inside the arm. But have you isolated it to where the hum is coming from? i.e is it the turntable, phono stage or amplifier? And if it is the turntable is it worse or better when you touch the tonearm? And does it get worse or better as the cartridge tracks toward the centre of the record?
  9. @catsound B&O has gone through many phases of acceptance over the years, in the 70's and 80's they had a very high reputation which was more than a little based on hype and form over function so in the 90's B&O equipment was pretty much worthless, now it is again trading on that high reputation and very fashionable. As @AGBsaid the biggest drawback with B&O turntables is the cartridge as you can only use a B&O cartridge and in your case an MMC 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 with the lowest number being the highest spec, the rebuild cost for an MMC4 or 5 the last time I had one rebuilt was 99 Euro's plus postage so from the US budget around $140. The only other thing you might need is a new belt and these can be had for a couple of bucks. As to whether its any good well opinions vary and like most manufacturers that have been at it a long time some B&O turntables are very good ranging down to at best average, yours is toward the average end but that isn't necessarily a bad thing because a lot of what is available new now is worse that average in comparison so with a good stylus in it will still sound better than something like the Teac TN300, any of it's direct competition and anything that is in a lower price bracket so even if the cartridge is toast for a comparable new turntable you would need to spend quite a bit more than the cost of rebuild to get better performance in something new. If you do need to get the cartridge rebuilt then I can wholeheartedly recommend these people, I've used them on more than a few occasions with superb results. http://schallplattennadeln.tonabnehmerservice.de/b-o-info-d/mmc-retipping-english/ If it were mine I'd keep it and look to getting the cartridge rebuilt and would look at getting the rest of the system B&O as it will make connection and use a lot more simple, so a Beomaster like the Beomaster 2200 or anything from the Beomaster 1900 family or possibly a Beocenter that has tape decks rather than a built in turntable like the Beocenter 4000 but with this one you would need an adaptor for the connections as it uses the more normal 2 RCA Phono's to connect the turntable rather than the 7pin din connector that is standard for B&O https://beocentral.com/beomaster2200 https://beocentral.com/beomaster1900family https://beocentral.com/beocenter4000-1980s These are great resources for anything B&O https://www.beoworld.org/ https://beocentral.com/
  10. It's certainly very impressive for what it is and I'd happily pay £150 for one but I don't want to spend your money for you.
  11. Yes it is absolutely superb, why are you thinking of getting one?
  12. There should be a little screw on the underside of the arm at the headshell end to slacken off the socket so it can be rotated and set correctly.
  13. True but the hate tends to be down to a lack of perseverance. Not really and no offense intended but I couldn't resist. In defense of all those who struggle with them they can be a bugger to set up and are quite arm fussy but when they are right they really sing, they get an unfounded bad press for IGD which is down to generally down to bad setup. Old Joseph knew a thing or two on the subject but unfortunately like all genius there was his way or the wrong way as far as he was concerned.
  14. Bad sound from a Grado? Sounds like operator error to me
  15. Not a new purchase i know but anybody in the UK looking for cheap gear Richer sounds have a couple of good starter bits for no money. https://www.richersounds.com/promotions/black-friday-hi-fi-speakers/wharfedale-9-0-black.html https://www.richersounds.com/promotions/blackfriday-hifi-separates/cambridge-topaz-am1-blk.html
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