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Everything posted by allenh

  1. Old TT vs. new one question

    In general vinyl records were in their heyday in the late 70's and early 80's with the absolute peak for high end turntables being in the mid to late 90's before the CD based decline really set in first time round. So basically more varied good turntables were made and in higher numbers during the 70's and 80's so it was easier to get a good turntable. The basic building blocks of a good turntable haven't changed and when no one wanted them $300 for a new table could buy you a used table where the equivalent used table if it were new now would be 10 times that. The down side of that is because so many turntables were made back then there was also plenty of absolute rubbish as well and all points in between so it is just as easy to pick up a big pile of crap. Now with turntables being back in fashion good used tables are now valued much higher so you have to do your research and or be lucky to find a bargain but in general for an average decent turntable you will still get more bang for your buck with a used table over a new one but that gap is slowly closing, and if spending a lot of money (I mean in the thousands) then with modern technology there are some amazing brand new tables around but that has never been any different. As I say the basic fundamentals of a good turntable haven't changed and there really is nothing new as everything is either a refinement of an earlier design or more accurately a blatant copy so you pay your money and take your choice. The bottom line with going used is research, research, research but the internet can be a huge help and a huge hindrance, there is a huge amount of info out there but a lot of it is utter rubbish. e.g. "My (insert name here) is the best turntable in the world" coming from someone who has only ever heard two turntables in their life isn't really to be trusted. Try and talk to people who have listened to lots of different turntables for their opinions but ultimately trust your own ears. And as to B&O, like all makers that produced many models over a long period, they made everything from complete stunners all the way down to utter crap but the biggest things with B&O were that most of it unfortunately was form over function so the look was more important than the design in most cases, and with the turntables unlike most other makers turntables the cartridges were B&O specific and are now impossible to get new so you have to have them rebuilt at quite a cost. The Beogram 3000 being a tangential tracking turntable is quite good by B&O standards and now has a higher value than it's real worth so my advice if the cartridge is in good condition would be to sell it and put the money to something better. Even if the cartridge is worn I would still sell it as it still has a pretty good value but try it and if you like it and the cartridge is good then keep it. You will only learn what you like and what you consider is good or bad by listening to it.
  2. I searched to see if anyone had posted this and couldn't see it but apologies if it's old news. It's probably only of interest for those of us in the UK but I was in HMV Oxford street earlier and they had quite a selection of vinyl for £9.99 and some for £12.99. Not sure if it was that store only or all the HMV's that carry vinyl are doing it but I bought all sorts of things, everything from Eminem and Hollywood Undead to the Beatles and Annie Lennox with a bit of Soul, Funk and Prog thrown in
  3. post your set-up thread

    Picked this up recently. Always wanted a fully loaded Revox PR99 so now I've finally got one I should really sell some of my others
  4. That's quite difficult to answer @RecruitingGuy because there's not really anything you can do to tweak it without changing items of kit. You can look at speaker and turntable positioning and isolation as that can make huge differences if its wrong but one thing to consider is It's not only the the phono stage and cartridge that have a bearing on the sound in the front end. One thing that people don't seem to take into account now is to make sure the cartridge/stylus are a good fit with the arm and by that I mean things like mass and compliance, the manufacturer of both will quote those figures and their use ranges so it's worth a check before you blame something else and start changing other things for the sake of it. That particular phono stage can pull every bit of information that your arm and cartridge can give and that the rest of the system can output so can do the job but my instinct is that your system will be quite bright sounding so possibly not the best thing for anything that needs a deep clear low down bass or more importantly the lower mid ranges. The MF should work very well with that MM cartridge but If I'm right the easiest thing you can do would be as previously suggested to look at what MC cartridges are suitable for your table as they will be more tonally balanced from the get go. Ideally bigger speakers to move more air and ideally passive ones with a decent integrated amplifier would be the answer but if it's an office system space etc might not allow that. It is doable in a small footprint though my office system currently uses a lot of British cottage Industry kit (mostly because I had it available) but for a small system is more than a little impressive. It is a Royce Elega turntable with Jelco 750 arm and Grado 8MZ cartridge/stylus, Musical Fidelity V90-LPS Phono Stage, Kinshaw Perception pre amp, Kinshaw Overture DAC, Inca Tech IT200 Mono Blocks into Harbeth LS 3/5a speakers.
  5. Superb phono stage and by far the best thing in your system by a country mile. Also a contender for your downgrade @xxmartinxx possibly although it doesn't give you cartridge loading options If you like the Sumiko sound then another option would be a Sumiko Blue Point Special if you can find one or one of the lower end Benz Micro's or possibly a Shure M97. That said the Shure might be a little bit too much with an MF phono stage and I'm not convinced about an Ortofon cart into an MF phono stage either but as @xxmartinxx says the better Denon's should work well. Another left field choice might be to pick up an old Grado cart that needs a stylus and then buy an 8MZ or better stylus to go in it. I've got a system with exactly the same phono stage in it although the rest is a bit higher up the food chain but I have an old Grado GT with an 8MZ stylus in that and it does work very well indeed. The only down side with Grado carts and could well be a problem for you is that they can be a bit of a pain to align which is why they get blamed for high IGD when its bad alignment and I'm not convinced the arm geometry of the Project Carbon arm is that accurate.
  6. Bought this Revox PR99 a couple of weeks ago. It had a fault on the reproduce card and needed a bit of general alignment but all good now.
  7. I've got an XPS-1 here and found it underwhelming sadly, can't say on the Project but the other solid state phono stages I've heard from them have been disappointing. Are the Project valve units out of budget? I can't say I was that impressed with them but at least with those you can do a bit of valve swapping if its not to your liking.
  8. Sadly I can't help on the U Turn as we don't get it in the UK but if you do get one I'd love to hear your opinion of it. My instinct is it's good and probably better than a Project Debut or an RP1 but it's not something I can easily confirm over here.
  9. Skipping when I walk up.

    Nothing you can do about the Crosley unless it's one of the slightly better component ones that have an adjustable weight on the back of the arm but even if it is it's not going to help unless it's wildly out, if it is as @Tardcore suggested get hold of a scale to see what its tracking at. Other then that you are looking at isolating the Crosley from whatever is making it bounce, be that the table its on or the floor. You can try putting the feet on some halved squash balls which quite often works with better turntables but it's going to be trial and error and TBH you're better just putting the Crosley in to landfill where it belongs as soon as you can get something better.
  10. Rotel RP 900, and Glass Platters?

    The Rotel is more likely to be Rega based than the Systemdek as yes good point they would have had parts like platters to use from the IIX range as suggested in that VA thread. That said I would be very surprised if even the Systemdek didn't use a modified Rega subplatter, everything about both the Rotel and Systemdek looks way too similar to be coincidental. Bottom line measure the platters centre hole and compare it to those quoted for the Rega and Systemdeks and certainly over here anyone that makes acrylic platters will cut the centre hole to any size you want And yes a quick search on ebay UK will show you the sheer depth and breadth of Rega upgrades available and yes I mentioned the two very different RP900's before, the original one being a true Rotel product.
  11. Rotel RP 900, and Glass Platters?

    Yes the Rotel is basically a Rega kit deck re badged Systemdek i and both use Rega parts like the sub platter so you should be able to use a platter designed for a Rega to go on it but check with the maker of the new platter what diameter the centre hole is. As far as I know the only non Rega parts are the plinth and platter on both the Rega and Systemdek I wouldn't bother with glass though if you are going to replace it go Delrin or Acrylic and a thick as you can.
  12. Firstly if you really want a Rega then buy a used Planer 3 or RP3 over a new RP1 every time if you can, the RP1 is a very cheap product dumbed down to try and compete with the lower end Projects overseas. And to help answer your questions: 1) With the standard Rega platters (glass, delrin, mdf etc.) you use a mat that acts as a slip mat much like on a DJ table which does allow you to flip records whilst they are spinning, now whether that's the correct thing to do is debatable and I personally favour turning the turntable off when changing records and the answer to stress on the belt (stress on the motor is minimal at worst) with any belt drive table on start up is to give the platter a helping spin by hand as you switch it on. And this is the best way to go if you upgrade to an acrylic platter where you don't use a mat at all. Also another plus point for the older but basically identical Rega tables is that the on/off switch is on the top where it should be. 2) refer to 1) really and there's no need to worry
  13. Crosley t200

    Same cheap plastic future landfill record wrecking crap as all the rest. Hangs head and emits deep very heavy sigh
  14. This. I went cheap and bought a one for $495 and it was a complete unmitigated disaster, I for one won't be making that sort of mistake again. From now on If the dialectic hasn't been hand rolled on the thighs of nubile hand maidens and the conductors hand drawn by a team of Yak's I'm out!!!
  15. Bought one of each, the Leah Senior LP and T Shirt this morning but shipping added a bit, $63Aus (£36) shipping
  16. Usually it will be the turntable and will be a bad ground and it's only really a big problem to fix if it's the wire inside the arm. But have you isolated it to where the hum is coming from? i.e is it the turntable, phono stage or amplifier? And if it is the turntable is it worse or better when you touch the tonearm? And does it get worse or better as the cartridge tracks toward the centre of the record?
  17. @catsound B&O has gone through many phases of acceptance over the years, in the 70's and 80's they had a very high reputation which was more than a little based on hype and form over function so in the 90's B&O equipment was pretty much worthless, now it is again trading on that high reputation and very fashionable. As @AGBsaid the biggest drawback with B&O turntables is the cartridge as you can only use a B&O cartridge and in your case an MMC 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 with the lowest number being the highest spec, the rebuild cost for an MMC4 or 5 the last time I had one rebuilt was 99 Euro's plus postage so from the US budget around $140. The only other thing you might need is a new belt and these can be had for a couple of bucks. As to whether its any good well opinions vary and like most manufacturers that have been at it a long time some B&O turntables are very good ranging down to at best average, yours is toward the average end but that isn't necessarily a bad thing because a lot of what is available new now is worse that average in comparison so with a good stylus in it will still sound better than something like the Teac TN300, any of it's direct competition and anything that is in a lower price bracket so even if the cartridge is toast for a comparable new turntable you would need to spend quite a bit more than the cost of rebuild to get better performance in something new. If you do need to get the cartridge rebuilt then I can wholeheartedly recommend these people, I've used them on more than a few occasions with superb results. http://schallplattennadeln.tonabnehmerservice.de/b-o-info-d/mmc-retipping-english/ If it were mine I'd keep it and look to getting the cartridge rebuilt and would look at getting the rest of the system B&O as it will make connection and use a lot more simple, so a Beomaster like the Beomaster 2200 or anything from the Beomaster 1900 family or possibly a Beocenter that has tape decks rather than a built in turntable like the Beocenter 4000 but with this one you would need an adaptor for the connections as it uses the more normal 2 RCA Phono's to connect the turntable rather than the 7pin din connector that is standard for B&O https://beocentral.com/beomaster2200 https://beocentral.com/beomaster1900family https://beocentral.com/beocenter4000-1980s These are great resources for anything B&O https://www.beoworld.org/ https://beocentral.com/
  18. It's certainly very impressive for what it is and I'd happily pay £150 for one but I don't want to spend your money for you.
  19. Yes it is absolutely superb, why are you thinking of getting one?
  20. There should be a little screw on the underside of the arm at the headshell end to slacken off the socket so it can be rotated and set correctly.
  21. True but the hate tends to be down to a lack of perseverance. Not really and no offense intended but I couldn't resist. In defense of all those who struggle with them they can be a bugger to set up and are quite arm fussy but when they are right they really sing, they get an unfounded bad press for IGD which is down to generally down to bad setup. Old Joseph knew a thing or two on the subject but unfortunately like all genius there was his way or the wrong way as far as he was concerned.
  22. Bad sound from a Grado? Sounds like operator error to me
  23. Not a new purchase i know but anybody in the UK looking for cheap gear Richer sounds have a couple of good starter bits for no money. https://www.richersounds.com/promotions/black-friday-hi-fi-speakers/wharfedale-9-0-black.html https://www.richersounds.com/promotions/blackfriday-hifi-separates/cambridge-topaz-am1-blk.html
  24. I like it but mostly because it's unique. I don't think enough people have a proper go at making or modifying their kit and it's a very satisfying feeling saying I did that.
  25. Yes they're currently experiencing the King Gizzard effect