allenh

You scored 15 out of 20! Congrats you are... Kvlt. You know that Furkantig means “square” in Swedish to describe the candles that you have on your altar. And above it? The raddest picture of Euronymous ever. Seriously, you scare children and their parents alike, all while wowing them with your design sense. Please check out our agency site. We’d be honored. Until the light takes us, Your friends at Gatesman+Dave. In the words of the great Homer Simpson "WooHoo" I don't mind a bit of Metal and I have been to Ikea (how else would I store my records) but I do take umbrage to the assertion I know what Furkantig means, makes me sound educated.

The records don't spin very well and it tends to warp them I bought it at a yard sale last summer and thought it would look good with the hifi, I have absolutely no use for it as all my cars are injected but couldn't leave it there. I expect the customs guys at the little regional airport I fly into and out of PA have a sweepstake going on what I'm going to bring through in my suitcase next, things like records and turntables they are used to now.

I have been enjoying reading through the various posts on the board and then I find one on beer, it must be Friday. I am British but my parents emigrated to the US about 15 years ago. On my many visits over to where they are in the US and touring about in that time I have noticed a definate shift away from mass produced lager toward more micro brewery and specialist type beers, IPA's and that sort of thing becoming more widely available and mainstream. Would this be an accurate assumption? I took it upon myself many years ago to sample as much varied beer as possible world wide, it's a thankless task but someone had to take the job on.

If it's not fun anymore it's not worth doing. If I find myself taking it too seriously I get the wife to slap me about the head until I stop. Iv'e seen the results of taking records and HiFi too seriously and it's not pretty

Depends where in the world you are as to what will be a good suggestion but make sure you mate your speakers rating to your amp so if your amps outputs are 40W RMS @ 8ohms you need speakes where the ohm value matches and the W value is ideally a little higher. Much higher and the amp won't drive them properly and much lower and you will blow them. Generally only good stuff quotes RMS power if it only gives peak power chances are it's cack. If the ohm values don't match it puts the W out as well and makes the speakers difficult to drive. Some amps will drive a range like 4 to 8 ohms in that case you have more choice. Sorry I don't have a lot of experience with Denon recievers and I'm sure someone can offer a more educated opinion but as a very general rule Denon are known for AV equipment so if it's within the last 10 or 15 years chances are musicality is secondary. That said if it has a phono stage built in that's not a bad sign and I would guess it's before they got deeply into AV Hope that helps

The biggest problem is what voltage drives the original bulbs, it could be anywhere from 3volts to 240volts depending on what supplies them and where in the world you are. An LED is very low voltage 0.7V typically so the ones used to replace bulbs will have a transformer or similar to allow it to operate on the voltage you need. You will need to look at your original bulbs and on the metal casing it should give a V value and a W value, V being the volts and W the watts. If they are not metal cased the details should be printed on the glass but this may have burnt off over time. Generally a fitting type means one voltage so if you can identify your bulbs from pictures you stand a chance. most electronic component suppliers like Digikey should be able to help you with direct LED replacements or you can then search on the net for bulb replacement LED's by the supply voltage, so if you search 12v LED bulb replacement you will get a whole string of them but you should find one that is the same fitting as the your original bulb. If you can't find one that's a direct replacement it gets a bit more tricky and that would be a whole other post about ohms law and the art of soldering.

Real name: Allen (not exactly an imaginative user name but one I can remember) Favorite Bands: The Black Keys, Anything Jack White, Anything Dave Grohl, Anything Paul Weller, Arctic Monkeys. The Kooks, The XX, Black rebel Motorcycle Club, Ocean Colour Scene, Fleetwood Mac, E.L.O. But this changes very frequently What's your Facebook/Twitter/Tumblr etc.?: Don't tend to do these much, have got a Facebook account but don't use it much. I leave all that to my wife. Hobbies (outside of record collecting): Hifi, Old Cars, motor racing, beer whenever the sun is over the yard arm. Play in a band? Run a record label? Link us!: Sadly neither but did record friends bands at gigs years ago and used to be a DJ Random things you want us to know about you: Used to work on Cranes and am scared of heights. Replaced cigarettes with tea and beer but not at the same time. The above favourite bands isn't actually representative of my taste, it's just what I am listening to most at the moment. I will listen to pretty much anything, a look at my record collection will show that. The great thing about Empire is that the sun is usually over the yard arm somewhere in the Empire

The expedit isn't that strong so if you had one full of vinyl on those blocks wouldn't it droop? Depends how big an expedit you have I suppose.

As Slinch has shown in his pictures the Turntable needs to be grounded at the pre amp. The MM/MC switch is for different types of cartridge. A MM cartridge generally has a higher output level than an MC one.

Yes I did chuckle a bit. Being British I do like a bit of sarcasm and Irony but you can learn something new day. From what I have seen on these boards there is a very wide range of views and levels of knowledge which can only be a good thing.

Thanks it's all part of lifes rich tapestry

I have a belt drive turntable that has a solid brass platter that must weigh somewhere near 35 to 40lbs and in the instuctions for it recomends you do this, until then I didn't know about it but after reading the insructions it got me thinking and I now do it for all belt drive turntables. I have had that turntable at least 7 years now and changed the belt when I got it and it's still on the same one.

Thanks very much. Not tidy or very minimalist though, it does look a bit like back stage at the Who if you look behind at all the cables

If you are familiar with tube guitar amps then you will be fine as the same rules apply sound wise. I haven't heard the Jolida and would like to find someone who has to see whether it's any good as I've had mixed success with Chinese tube hifi and price seems to be no real factor in the quality. The only saving grace with tube stuff you don't like the sound of you can just change the tubes, if you don't like the sound of a solid state one like most on the market you are stuck with that sound. The Rega is a very good pre for the price but does restrict you to MM or high output MC carts unless you use step up transformer

Some photo's of my main system. Pretty poor photo's as it was a grey day here today so I will try some more on a brighter day.

It's not the changing speed that will wear out or stretch the belt. On a belt drive turntable the belt wear is on startup while the motor tries to spin that heavy platter, in the drive chain something has to give and the belt is the weakest point and that's why they stretch so if you want them to last longer give the platter a helping spin before you start the motor

Yes it cuts it down considerably

Tubes (valves) are old technology which is not to say worse but do have physical drawbacks as well as many pluses. A simple solid state phono pre will sound pretty much the same everyday and pretty much as soon as you power it on, a tube one needs to warm up to sound it's best and the tubes a deteriorating every time you use them. That said the warm up to me is part of the theatre of it all and the end result is well worth the wait. And for amps like the project that use common tube types if you don't like the sound just change the tubes as the same tube from different makes will sound vastly different in the same amp. Also the tube sound can be a bit Marmite in that you will probably have a strong opinion on the sound one way or the other. I love the tube sound and even have a tube in the output of my CD player and in the output of my tuner but some just can't stand it. Of the solid state (non tube) pre's I can vouch for the Cambridge, the Musical Fidelity, the Rega and the NAD but found the Project a little lacking. All of them have a ceiling for the cartridge they will match to and as always get the best you can afford because as you upgrade other things the money you invested earlier will come to the fore. The best advice is to listen to as many as possible and also look at the resale values because if you get it home and don't like the thing it will be less of a worry if you can sell it on for not much of a loss. with any turntable I have found that you don't really get the upgrade costs back but it does make it easier to sell. That's not really the point of doing it to me though, it's part of the enjoyment and any proper turntable is worth having a go at upgrading if you can justify it to yourself. The key is to use all your equipment for a good while to get used to them so if you do upgrade you will know with certainty if the upgrade was worthwhile.

I might be a little late on this thread so sorry if I am or I'm giving anyone’s granny too many eggs but acrylic platters are favoured over metal or glass because they are more inert. A metal or glass platter can ring which can make things sound brighter, but an acrylic platter is only sonically better if you are using a cartridge and arm combination that is sensitive enough to pick up that ring on a metal or glass platter in the first place. but even if your arm/cartridge are not a reason to upgrade they do look a lot nicer especially with coloured vinyl and you don't use a plater mat of any sort.

Nothing as far as I can see, I buy with my ears first but you still have to look at the thing so it might as well please your eyes as well

I've not heard one with that cable in and going on the clearaudio products I have heard I would expect it to be upto their usual standard. Yes there are better arms but it's difficult to better at the price. I know what you mean about not needing to upgrade from it because once you have one at the price it's what all the competition is measured against. I've only managed to better the RB300 I had because I have picked up better at a very good price or have bought things that are paid for out of the profit made out of something else making them cheaper.

The RB300 is a superb arm for the money, the only reason I sold mine was it was the only fit I had for the turntable I was selling at the time, I didn't worry too much as they are so common here that I thought I would pick up another if I needed. I found it superb with low to medium spec carts and really got the best out of them but struggled to get the best out of the higher end MC carts. That said a rewire with Cardas wire helps no end on that score and is an easy cheap upgrade if you are at all handy.

The Voyd I think, it was a close run thing between it and my first PTOne. the PTOne I still have but the Voyd just represented a shed load more money for no audible gain that I could detect so off it went, if anything out of the two I still prefer the sound of the Pink Yes sorry Jase I have had a Rega which sadly falls into the category of decks I had forgot. I had a P3 that I didn't keep long as I'm more a fan of suspended decks but I did keep the RB300 arm for a very long time, I still think that arm is almost impossible to beat for the price. I have also had the Amstrad that some say the first Rega's were based on. I think Rega made part of it for Amstrad before making turntables on their own.

Firstly hello to all as I'm new to the board. As someone who can't say no to a turntable of any vintage, which is probably a medical problem I thought I would post my current list of vintage tables: Pink Triangle PTOne (two off) Pink Triangle PTTwo Pink Tiangle LPT MRM (Odessy) Source Revox B795 Optonica (Sharp) R-3636 Goldring Lenco GL72 Pioneer PL-430 Pioneer PL-640 Rotel RP1500 Being in England where a lot of the cottage industry turntables and arms came from I've been lucky enough to have owned at least one example of all of the below at one time or another: Systemdek IIx Systemdek IIx 900 Linn LP12 Linn Axis Ariston RD11 Ariston RD11s Ariston RD40 Ariston RD80 Ariston RD90 Garrard 401 Garrard 301 Audio Linear TD4001 Voyd Valdi Acoustic Research EB101 ADC 1600 Logic Tempo Logic DM101 Micro Seiki DD7 Micro Seiki MR2A Mission 775SM NAD 5120 QED R232 Revolver Thorens TD160 Thorens TD165 Thorens TD166 Pioneer PL12 Pionner PL15D Pioneer PL112 Technics SL150 Technics SL1200 Technics SL1210 Technics SL120 Technics SP10 Technics SL-BD21 And probabaly quite a few more I can't remember Things I haven't tried yet but would like to: Anything from Michell Anything from Transcriptors Anything from Sota Anything from Luxman Looking at the list it's no wonder my wife thinks I haev a problem.