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Very nice-looking table, Allen. Am I correct in thinking that's a direct drive motor with a sprung sub-chassis? That would seem to defeat the purpose a bit with the motor not being decoupled from the platter and arm, no? Just wondering.

 

Yes it is direct drive but no it's not a sprung sub chassis. The whole thing sits on 4 sprung/damped feet.

 

Micro Seiki made the only proper sprung sub chassis direct drive I could find, The rest if suspended at all are like this Luxman where the whole thing sits on springs, I researched the subject a fair bit as I decided to build one a couple of years ago because I couldn't work out why no one had made one and the Micro was the only mass production one I could find, which was after I had built mine. 

You are right about the motor not being de coupled from the bearing, platter and arm by the belt though but with any direct drive suspended or not it isn't de coupled either because the motor sits with the bearing and platter.

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Ah, ok. There doesn't seem to be a ton of easily found information about those Luxmans out there, so I wasn't sure.

 

And yeah, I get that the theoretical downside to any direct drive TT is that the motor isn't decoupled from the bearing/platter. That's why it seemed like an odd design choice when I mistakenly thought the Luxman had a proper sprung sub-chassis. Makes more sense now.

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I just bought a second-hand Music Hall A15.2 amp to power my Mirage speakers.  Quite happy with it. 

 

What I really need to buy is a better stand to keep the stuff on.

 

I really like my Music Hall a15.2. It sounds amazing for the price. How much did you pay for a 2nd hand one? I paid $421ppd for an open box one.

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I paid $200 for mine.  It's in pretty much brand-new condition without a scratch and included the original packaging/remote/book. 

 

Great deal for the amp. I was super happy paying double it. I still have a warranty, which is nice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been running my set up for extended periods of time on my days off (watching movies and listening to records) and noticed my AVR was running pretty hot. Bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/ANTEC-Notebook-Cooler-V-COOLER/dp/B000QJ4ZE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443509471&sr=8-1&keywords=antec+coolerand it seems like it's helped a ton so far. I used to be able to hold my hand 6 inches above the top of the receiver and feel the heat coming from it, and now it doesn't seem like there is any external heat that I can notice. Recommend.

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Been running my set up for extended periods of time on my days off (watching movies and listening to records) and noticed my AVR was running pretty hot. Bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/ANTEC-Notebook-Cooler-V-COOLER/dp/B000QJ4ZE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443509471&sr=8-1&keywords=antec+coolerand it seems like it's helped a ton so far. I used to be able to hold my hand 6 inches above the top of the receiver and feel the heat coming from it, and now it doesn't seem like there is any external heat that I can notice. Recommend.

 

Have you had a look inside to see if there is a build up of dust? A build up of dust will make any amplifier run hotter and these things attract dust internally especially the ones with fan assisted cooling so taking the cover off every now and then and giving it a good vacuum can be a good idea.

 

Edit

 

Just a thought do the B&W's take a bit more driving compared to what you had making your AVR run hotter? I know my Morduant Short's make mine work for a living and the Onkyo I previously had just couldn't drive them even without over working.

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Have you had a look inside to see if there is a build up of dust? A build up of dust will make any amplifier run hotter and these things attract dust internally especially the ones with fan assisted cooling so taking the cover off every now and then and giving it a good vacuum can be a good idea.

 

Edit

 

Just a thought do the B&W's take a bit more driving compared to what you had making your AVR run hotter? I know my Morduant Short's make mine work for a living and the Onkyo I previously had just couldn't drive them even without over working.

 

Yeah my AVR is relatively new (I've had it a little less than a year) so I don't think dust would be the issue.  But yes ever since I went from the CM6 to the CM10 is when it got noticeably hotter so I assume it is the difference in power that is making it heat up more.  I am also running a full 5.1 when watching movies and passively bi-amping the fronts so running 7 channels total which I also would account for it running hot in general.

 

Once I get to the two year mark of the AVR (when it's out of its manufactures warranty) is when I would actually open it up and clean out the insides.  Either way the cooling fan is working wonders for the heat, and it runs extremely quiet as well.  Overall it works a lot better than I imagined it to.

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I went to an audiojumble yesterday and picked up a few bits. No Revox open reel machines this time, there were a few there but the prices were very high.

 

I got this Myryad T20 cd player, nice south coast UK made and designed unit and a nice sounding thing.

 

DSCF1043_zpsxtwnfhlx.jpg

 

Also got this Royce Elega turntable, a very rare thing indeed. It uses a Sorbothane type material for the suspension and the feet, it came without an arm so I put a Linn Basic on it just to try it out and liked what I heard so this ones going to get a bit more attention

 

DSCF1047_zpsw4u2grwm.jpg

DSCF1046_zpsa0gzehh2.jpg

 

And got what must be the cheapest SL12XX I've ever seen, it needs a new pitch potentiometer but apart from that pretty good

 

DSCF1048_zpsdnyamwdg.jpg

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Nice pick ups Allen. That Royce Elega looks quite nice. What do suspension type table usually use? Sorbothane is supposed to be a great dampening material, so it makes sense to use it.

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It's a very interesting thing and I can very very little info about it and I bet there are not many about.

 

Normally suspended turntables are sprung but this one has sorbothane feet and some sort of similar material between the base and the chassis so it's more damped than suspended and it's used in a very similar way to how suspension is used on tables that don't have a suspended sub chassis, it's a lot like the Japanese idea of a suspended turntable apart from it doesn't use springs to do it.

 

I think the aluminium sub platter has a lot to do with the way it sounds as well. I'm going to try an acrylic platter and a better arm on it at some point.

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I feel dumb, since springs are used in pretty much all types of suspension. It is still a really sharp looking table, and I bet it'll be fun to play with different set ups. I like that tonearm you put on it too. How much did you pay for the 12XX?

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It's an interesting thing, for such a small place we've made a lot of unusual turntables and it never ceases to amaze me when I find another I've never seen or heard of. That arm is a Linn Basik that I got from the same audiojumble in February and it was a box of bits. The Technics I paid £70 for so roughly about $105

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That is a good deal compared to what 1200's normally go for. British audio does have a lot, for like you said, such a small place. Your stuff is almost always really great quality too. I've been looking into it more for some upgrades, when I can afford them of course.

 

How many tables are you up to now Allen?

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