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BitLess

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Posts posted by BitLess

  1. No, it's the 103 that you're thinking of. It does have a conical stylus, but you would never know it with how much detail and tight bass it pulls out of the grooves. The non-replaceable stylus is what has always kept me away from MC carts as well, but the 103R is so reasonably priced for its performance. I was debating between the 103R and a 2M Bronze, but replacing the stylus alone on the Bronze would cost more than the 103R. Plus, I know a lot of people get their 103Rs re-tipped with better styluses; so that's always an upgrade option.

  2. 12 minutes ago, Thomas³ said:

    I hate you. I really want a 160, but I can't swing the cost. What'd it run you?

     

    Edit: What Denon cart are you running on it?

    Including the cartridge and shipping, it set me back just shy of $2,000. Certainly the most I've ever spent on a single piece of audio equipment, but I have no regrets.

     

    The cartridge is a DL-103R. I was a little nervous about making the switch to a Moving Coil, as I had no experience with them, but I have a phono stage that can easily handle low-output MC carts, and I read that the 103R was a great match for the Jelco SA-750D tonearm.

  3. I'll add my endorsement for the Red to Blue upgrade. I've had my Blue for about a month now, and am astounded by how much better it sounds than the Red. I figured going from a Red to a Bronze or Black would be a huge leap in quality, but I really wasn't expecting this big of a difference between the Red and Blue. Definitely worth it.

  4. I see a way you could make these Ikea-ish. I'm struggling to find the word for them, but I remember having them on a desk years ago. So hopefully my crappy paint picture will make sense. It basically expands when you tighten it with a screwdriver to hold in place. Looking at my picture, the left two images would be before and after tightening. And the two boxes show the "holes" you would need in each piece of wood.

     

    So say you were joining the top platform with one of the sides. On the underside of the top piece of wood, you would have a hollowed out circle that fits the hardware in snug, along with an opening for the end to stick out and meet with the side piece. In the side piece, you'd have a hole drilled to match the end of the piece of hardware. You'd wedge the piece of hardware into the underside of the top piece, stick your side piece in by shoving the nub end of the hardware into the hole, then use a screwdriver to lock them in place.

     

    wBb2mDv.jpg?1

     

    I'm a little surprised Ikea doesn't use them more, they are crazy stable and worked really well. Even easy to un-tighten, take apart and move,then re-assemble and retighten. 

     

    Edit: just realized I still have the desk them. If this was too confusing I can take a picture of it later tonight. 

    Yeah, I know exactly the type of connection you're talking about. That's one of the options we were discussing. It's probably the most user-friendly way to go, but would also mean that from the inside of the unit, the hardware would be somewhat visible. But that's not a terrible trade-off. The other thing we want to figure out is the best way to mount it to the wall. Mine just has 4 holes drilled into the back panel, and I used four 4" cabinet screws with washers, that I drove straight into the wood studs in my wall. While there's nothing wrong with mounting it that way, it does take a little bit of finessing it to get everything perfectly level. I'd like to come up with something more foolproof. 

  5. Given the prices people charge for anything audio related, I'm sure the margins are there (I'm sure you noted this when searching for yourself).

     

    Flat packing it would be a big advantage to manufacture. A DIYish kit would be cool even if the buyer had to bust out some pegs/wood glue to assemble.

     

    If I was in the market for such a thing, one improvement I might like to see would be a small (4"-6") shelf for brushes, stylus cleaner, and the like.

    That was one my main impetuses for asking my dad to make this for me. When I saw what companies were charging for unsightly, cheaply welded metal brackets, I thought there had to be a better option. Surprisingly, there was not. I also knew that in order to convince my wife to let me mount my turntable to our living room wall, it would have to be something that looks really nice. 

  6. it's actually pretty hard to match stain colors that well. 

     

    If your father ever gets out of the cabinet biz, he could probably have a nice part-time gig selling shelves like this on audiogon or wherever. 

    Well, once I saw how well this one turned out, I started talking to him about the viability of creating a little side-business. I'm gauging interest here and on some other forums, and if it seems like it would be worthwhile, he will definitely make more of them to sell.

     

    We just need to work out some build modifications, so that we can offer it as a more user-friendly, Ikea-esque kit. The way the joints in this one are done, it would either have to be shipped pre-built -- which would increase the cost -- or the customer would have to have at least some building skills, as well as access to a set of clamps.

  7. Shortly after I bought my AR turntable, I knew that getting it off of the Kallax bookshelf that sits on a bouncy hardwood floor was an absolute must. I didn't like any of the purpose-built options for turntable wall mounts, and I didn't want to go the low budget DIY route, so I asked my dad if he could design a custom wall shelf for me, that included some record storage. This is what he came up with, and I could not be happier. 

     

    IMG_0802.jpgIMG_0806.jpgIMG_0809.jpg

  8. She lived like a hour a way and i dont think it was very nice to ask my mom to drive that far so i had to pass.

    That's too bad. That would have been a decent deal. At any rate, my advice is to be patient, and see if another good deal comes along for some vintage gear. The fact that you're on this site asking questions leads me to believe that you're dedicated to getting something that's at least decent, so I hope you don't settle on that LP60. 

  9. Ah, ok. There doesn't seem to be a ton of easily found information about those Luxmans out there, so I wasn't sure.

     

    And yeah, I get that the theoretical downside to any direct drive TT is that the motor isn't decoupled from the bearing/platter. That's why it seemed like an odd design choice when I mistakenly thought the Luxman had a proper sprung sub-chassis. Makes more sense now.

  10. Oh, it didn't even occur to me that this was the same guy who posted about that Technics table and Panasonic receiver in the other thread. Dude, seriously. For $50 plus $13 for that Pyle preamp, you're going to have something way better than an $80 LP60, which you would still have to buy more gear to listen to anyway. Why are you asking for advice if you aren't going to listen to people who know what they're talking abou--oh right, you're 16. Nevermind. But seriously, if the deal that lady was offering is still on the table, take it.

  11. Are you talking about the Pyle compact phono preamp that sells for around $14? Because that, plus the Lepai amp aren't likely to give you great sound. But it seems like you already had the Uturn for a little while, and it was sounding fine before. Is that right? I don't know what to tell you. It's possible that you've just gotten used to it, and are now beginning to pick up on the shortcomings of your system, but that's just a guess.

  12. Ok,so I ended up getting a replacement and am having the same problem so it must be something wrong on my end. The tracking force is correct and the aligntment is right to the best of my knowledge. The cantilever is paralllel/even with the grid. What is the VTA?

    VTA is short for Vertical Tracking Angle. To keep it simple, when your stylus is lowered onto a record, your tonearm should be level when you look at it from the side, and not sitting at an angle. Since different cartridges have different heights, sometimes you will need to adjust the height of the tonearm to compensate. But not all tonearms have an adjustable VTA.

    It would help to have a little more information about your turntable, and the rest of your set up. Without further details, it's difficult to narrow down what might be going on.

  13. I read something about needles needing a "break in" period when they're new. I recently replaced my Ortofon Omega needle and still noticed a fair amount of sibilance and distortion. Is that common or might it be an alignment issue?

    You shouldn't be getting distortion from a new cartridge; that's got nothing to do with "break in". I would check the alignment first, as well as your tracking force. Also check VTA while you're at it. If all of that seems correct, you may have just gotten a defective cartridge.

  14. Yes it does seem steep but no you don't see them in that sort of condition everyday, either way a very nice table, how does it sound? And are you going to keep it standard or upgrade it at all?

     

    Sadly the EB101 we got here was a much cheaper table and you had to go up to the Legend to get a nice AR, it always seemed short sighted of AR to sell different tables in different markets when the real competition in sprung tables was in Europe and they could have made a much better name from themselves, I suppose it was a case of sending the Legend over to get the praise and the Euro EB101 for the sales.

     

    The Euro EB101 is fine it's just nowhere near as nice as the US one and consequently used to make very good value but now you see them going for relatively silly money compared to what they used to go for.

    Considering what I paid for it, I think I'll keep it standard for the time being. It would be a shame to start ripping it apart when everything is in such great shape to begin with. I know that tonearm isn't the best, but considering the rest of my current setup, it's more than adequate for my needs. If I do any upgrades in the near future, I'll likely start with the spring and stud kit from VinylNirvana, and then maybe upgrade the motor. 

     

    The table sounds great so far, and I still have some tweaks I need to do. I need to make some adjustments to the springs to get the platter level with the plinth, as it's currently a bit off. I also don't think I did a great job aligning the cart, so I'm going to fiddle with that a bit tonight.

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