Tardcore

if you have a computer, you probably just need a turntable.

I assume you can ground to the preamp and the turntable should come with the appropriate cable. You’ll likely want to eventually upgrade the speaker end, but it’s a good start. The only other thing is that you may want something like a Schiit SYS if you still want to use the speakers with your computer and then switch source to the turntable.

I owned a Marantz PM5004 and a PM6004 before eventually upgrading to a 2nd hand PM8004. If I had to choose between a PM5005 and the Rotel A10, I would probably go with the Rotel just because of the Preamp out/trigger feature that may come in handy down the road. THAT SAID, based on my own experience, I would recommend keeping an eye out for a used Marantz PM800(4/5/6). I see them come up used for around $500 (in the US) here and there and I am really happy with mine. Although, if you're in NZ/AU area, I understand that the prices/market for stuff like this is much different than in the US.

If you think insurance will cover it, I would just run it hard and see if it fails. You could pull it apart and see if there’s visable water damage, but if it’s working now, it’s probably ok.

I got a Marantz TT 15-S1 as a B stock from Music Direct several years ago and am completely satisfied. The Best Buy Magnolia in my area carries them. Given your recent experience, I’d say you have a good opening to ask for some $$ off.

I used a Project Debut Carbon with the previous gen Monitor Audio Silver RX1s and eventually upgraded to a Marantz PM8004 I found for $500 from a dealer on ebay (probably leading up to the release of the PM8005). the PM800x series is made in Japan in the same factory as their reference series and is built like a tank. The PM600x and PM500x models are not even close to the quality. My 8004 is currently driving some Monitor Audio RX8s with a Marantz TT-15S1 turntable so it will easily scale up to higher end gear. I think they're up to PM8006 at this point, but I don't think they have changed much in the way of features. If you keep an eye on ebay/audiogon you can find similar deals in the $500-$600 range and I don't think you can do much better for the money.

If you want to use an external preamp, plug it into the Aux input.

Thanks for helping out with the trouble shooting. It’s helpful to have a second opinion.

UPDATE: I remembered that my Furman line conditioner has a trigger in/output. I ran the trigger line from my receiver into the Furman and on into the sub and fired everything up. The sub correctly powered up with my receiver and the hum is gone. So...I guess problem is solved? I'm still concerned that there is some kind of grounding issue in my subwoofer, but I guess if my apartment burns down, it's Furman's fault.

Emotiva makes an active box that takes a 12v trigger input and splits it into up to 3x 12v trigger outputs. I ordered one to see if putting it in between the receiver and the sub somehow solves the issue. Even if it doesn't it was only $40 and is sort of a useful thing to have regardless. If (when) that doesn't pan out....I'm kind of digging having the sub in my desktop setup at the moment. I may just say fuck it and order an SVS sub for my AV setup and keep the Monitor Audio sub with my PC rig. EDIT: You mentioned the sub interconnect cable and I realize that I hadn't tried to disconnect the sub interconnect. I hooked everything back up and unplugged the sub interconnect cable rather than the 12v and confirmed that the hum went away. I tried a different sub interconnect. No change. I also tried connecting my desktop amp (Emotiva fusion flex) to the same sub output and 12v trigger out on the receiver and confirmed no hum. It does seem to confirm the issue lies between the sub interconnect cable and the 12v trigger. It's not completely clear whether the problem is with the receiver or the sub but I still believe that the non-functioning power mode selector may be responsible.

That's a good point. The fact that the power mode selection switch on the sub is not working correctly (which directly interacts with the 12v trigger port) and that other triggered devices connected to the receiver do not cause any issues lead me to think the sub is the culprit. I checked and the only options available related to the 12v triggers control are to control when a connected device is On/Off depending on channel (example sub ON for DVD channel but OFF for CD). In my case, they are all switched to ON. Additionally, I didn't mention in my OP that there are 2 trigger out ports and I tried both of them with the same result. Also the hum is present in all speakers including my L/R fronts which are driven by an external amp (PM8004).

Probably not the best place to get real assistance with this issue but I may as well throw it out here in case somebody has some troubleshooting advice.... I recently replaced my AV receiver with a new Marantz SR7012 and am having an issue with a humming noise that goes away when I disconnect the 12v trigger cable I use to activate my subwoofer (Monitor Audio RXW-12). Troubleshooting: Tried a different 12v trigger cable. No change. My power situation is slightly janky. I primarily use a Furman Elite DMi power conditioner but I have to plug it into a power strip (Tripplite Isobar) basically because the power cable isn't quite long enough. I swapped some things around there. No change. I plugged the sub into my desktop setup (Emotiva XDA-2 digital preamp into a Emotiva fusionflex amp) using the 12v trigger and no hum. everything works fine. I tried plugging in another 12v trigger capable device to the receiver. No hum. The subwoofer itself has 3 power settings: On, Auto and Off. By design, whenever the 12v trigger cable is connected, the sub simply powers on/off based on the trigger signal and ignores the power settings. I found that when I unplug the 12v trigger cable the On/Auto power settings no longer do anything. I have always had the 12v trigger cable connected so I really don't know how long it's been like this. My thought is that the best case scenario is there's something wrong like a bad solder joint in the sub's power mode selector switch. I ran the issue by Monitor Audio and they said the entire plate amp unit needs to be replaced and quoted me a part price which wasn't much less than I paid for the subwoofer new. Unless somebody can offer up something else I can try, I think my next step is to pull apart the sub to see if I can find anything obviously wrong with the power mode selector switch. I do have a a multi meter but I'm not really knowledgeable enough to do any advanced troubleshooting.

Are you sure you have the TAPE 1 engaged? TAPE outputs don't always passively send out a signal, on some receivers, you may need to select the Tape 1 to start sending a signal. Otherwise, I would say that you should maybe hit up a mac forum to make sure you're managing your combination port correctly.

Depending on which model Macbook you have, your headphone port may be a combination port, meaning it is configurable to work as either an input or an output, or it is a simple output. If it's output only then you're obviously not going to be able to use it as an input. If it's a combination port, you may need to do some configuration to make it work as in input.

This is your latest purchase? What's the return policy like on something like that?

If you poke around Audiogon or other online Audiophile marketplaces, you can find some decent deals. Monitor Audio Silver 1s for $479. I use the previous generation RX1s as my desktop speaker and really like them. https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lis95e41-monitor-audio-silver-1-bookshelf-speakers-brand-new-in-box-5-yr-warranty-45-off-f-monitors

Hard to beat Wharfedale 10.1s for $250. There's a new version of these, the Wharfedale 220s for $100 more. Never heard those though. https://www.amazon.com/Wharfedale-DIA101-ROS-Diamond-10-1-Rosewood/dp/B0079XG4TW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8 https://www.amazon.com/Wharfedale-5025941156901-Diamond-220-Walnut/dp/B00TYN3EUC

If you can toss out an approximate budget, it would be a big help to those who would like to help you.

My long-suffering Marantz SR5008 crapped out on me last week. I originally bought it as a refurb and the HDMI card went out on it within the warranty period. Now, 3 years after repair, it started making the same awful noise. I tested running a non-HDMI source through it and had no issues, so I am pretty sure the HDMI card crapped out again. A little research shows it it seems to be a common issue with this model. And while my SR5008 may yet enjoy a second life as a desktop amp, I went ahead and picked up a new Marantz SR7012 to take over AV duty. I have always read people talking about the big difference between Audyssey XT32 that comes with the 70xx series and the more basic correction that comes with the lower end models, but I always dismissed it. After running setup with my new receiver, I gotta say I am impressed. The big difference is in the bass. It is far more subtle now than it ever was with my old receiver. I know that the sub is on because the bass is there, but it's not like before when it was really obvious and boomy. I have only watched a few movies so far at relatively low "school night" volumes. I am looking forward to cranking it a bit over the weekend. I may have to add a few speakers into my (dated) 5.1 setup to make use of the extra watts I now have available....Currently I only run Center/Rear off the receiver with my Marantz PM8004 powering my fronts. Current AV Setup: Receiver - Marantz SR7012 Front Amp - Marantz PM8004 Front Speakers - Monitor Audio RX8 Center Channel - Monitor Audio RX-center Rear Surround - Monitor Audi RX-FX Sub - Monitor Audio RX-W12

Man. I bet thrift stores in the 80’s had sweet turntables.

duplicate post

My streaming setup is pretty simple. I run an Apple TV (currently the 4k, formerly a 3rd gen, and an Apple Airport Express) into my Marantz SR5008 which is passing the signal in Pure Mode (2.0 stereo, no signal to sub) to my Marantz PM8004 in amp only mode powering Monitor Audio RX8 speakers. In other words, I am using my AV receiver (SR5008) purely as a digital preamp and not to drive my speakers. I have tried running the same digital signal from the Apple streaming units into my Emotiva XDA-2 DAC into the PM8004 and didn't really notice a difference and I had to push some additional buttons to get it set up that way versus just using the same setup I use for movies, etc.

RX6s are more suited for a smaller room and don't have the exaggerated bass that the RX8's are known for. I keep the front bass ports of my RX8s plugged in order to keep the bass from being too boomy in my room.

I have some RX8s as well. I wish they were RX6s, but I got them used and the price was right. How do you like the Cambridge amp with them? I use a Marantz PM8004.

It will probably work great unless you plan to use some exotic, hard to drive headphones. You would simply plug your phono preamp into an Aux/CD/whatever input on the Rotel and give the headphone plug a try. if you also want to drive some powered speakers/monitors like the OP, just plug those into a Tape output on the Rotel.