Cycling? Anyone here ride?

[thebiglebowski]

Looking for a road bike to help me get through a 60 mile ride in about 2 months (60 miles isn't too bad, but it's a very windy and hilly ride, which necessitate a good bike or a lot of hard pedalling).

 

Think I'm going carbon fiber. Also leaning towards used just to get best value for my dollar. I don't need to try and win a triathlon, just want a nice enough road bike that I can pretty much do any ride up to 100 miles without dying. Know I need a 58 cm bike. I don't care enough to go for something custom fitted or brand new. Didn't see much on Craigslist that interested me. Quick ebay search led me to these:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181678022146?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Scott-CR1-20-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bike-58cm-/291382865382?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d7c5ade6

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Scott-Solace-30-105-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bike-58cm-/291382721135?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d7c37a6f

 

Goal is to stay under $1500 but focused more on getting value for my dollar (something that would retail for 2x+ new what I pay for it). Any thoughts on these bikes? What's a recommended max bid on each (maybe the "steal" and "don't go above" prices)?

 

Thanks

[thebiglebowski]

I'd add that MI is still frozen so I have weeks before I really need anything in my hands to do any training.

[thebiglebowski]

Something like this is in play too:

 

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/sprintour_xiv.htm

 

Not concerned with whether condition is new/like new/good, if it's cosmetic. I just have no real idea how to compare bikes. Looking for someone to just sum it all up to "this will pedal the easiest and go the fastest."

[youspinmeround]

Dude the bike isn't going to make you. Yes some make the ride better but if your motor sucks it doesn't matter

[thebiglebowski]

Dude the bike isn't going to make you. Yes some make the ride better but if your motor sucks it doesn't matter

 

The majority can weigh in but when I was pedalling a mid quality aluminum bike (albeit a mountain bike) and overweight 50 year old women were cruising by me I came to the conclusion that the bike makes a significant difference in long distance riding. If the point is that any road bike is as good as any other, ok. I'm not hurting for money and would like to get something I'm going to be happy with for a long time and not grow out of if I get more serious into cycling.

[albie007]

^cant go wrong with lightweight steel! (surly,soma,salsa) i have a surly steamroller (singlespeed) and i pass guys all day long on bikes that you linked above. also if you need phat (or studded) tires for winteryou have options with surly..etc..

a new surly cross check (with gears ) is around $1100 new

carbon fiber is nice but is overkill for your needs.

[thebiglebowski]

^cant go wrong with lightweight steel! (surly,soma,salsa) i have a surly steamroller (singlespeed) and i pass guys all day long on bikes that you linked above. also if you need phat (or studded) tires for winteryou have options with surly..etc..

a new surly cross check (with gears ) is around $1100 new

carbon fiber is nice but is overkill for your needs.

 

Don't understand your post. How can Surly be a better choice and the  carbon fiber stuff I listed above be overkill at the same time given that they are all about the same price? No plans to ride in the winter and if I do, I already have a mountain bike. I want to go higher than what I need (just not a couple thousand higher than what I need).

 

Just trying to understand why I would go steel over carbon fiber. Not worried about crashing and steel has to be heavier, right?

[radiatorhums]

I have a Surly frame that I love.  I couldn't believe how light it was the first time I picked it up.

[albie007]

have you ever ridden a carbon fiber bike? or steel? and no! a quality made 'lightweight' steel bike isnt that heavy. how does it compare? well thats up to you. i suggest some test rides at your LBS. ive been riding since i was four. aluminuim/carbon fiber/steel/and i even rode a bamboo bike! For me steel is the best ride out there. but thats me

be a man lebowski! put some steel between your legs and see what its all about. but dont test ride some heavy steel bike from sears from the 80s and say its too heavy.

[passionbrand]

I have two single speed bikes 

 

a wabi special that is simply amazing!!! 

and 

a specialized london langster with the dopest paint job I have ever seen on a bike.  its white with a map of the london underground. 

 

next time I am home I will post some pics of them.

[jerseydave77]

A few suggestions:

Never buy a bike on eBay - focus on Craigslist where you can see it in person.

Most areas have a local cycling list serve that buys and sells. After that check sites like Slowtwitch where those selling are anal and legit invested in the community.

Find an indoor trainer - I recommend a Kurt kinetic for cost effectiveness. Then get on TrainerRoad or the new sensation zwift. A 20 dollar motion stick and 30 dollar garmin cadence meter will have you going. Knowing the metrics of your training will help a ton.

If buying used see if you can get a power meter in the deal - it's hard but possible.

Finally, at 1500 you might consider stretching to 1800 or 2k and look at new Scott bikes - great value there.

This is all assuming you plan to keep riding but once you get invested you can stay set with no further cash for a

Long while.

Also, Get some body glide and Vaseline and do all you can to avoid saddle soars.

Good luck man

[jerseydave77]

Also, I ride a carbon cervelo- I'll never go back. My wheels made a huge difference in speed but directed training go me faster more than anything.

With carbon - ignore anyone that talks about particular Modulus. It's a sham and marketing gimmick That is popular right now.

[albie007]

^yes good advice about ebay. test rides are best. also i would avoid bikes direct as well. they are cheap but a quality carbon fiber with quality components wont be had for under 1500$.

If i ever do upgrade it will be a three speed salsa cassorole. Or maybe a internal geared hub like alfine or rohloff. But that's for when I'm a old fart.

[jerseydave77]

There is no question that if someone wants to be in bike-shape and ride faster as a goal that learning how to train properly and structure a workout around your end-goal course is a must. 

 

Some people will tell you that a personal coach/trainer is needed. I say a couple good books and a solid on-line training program is more than enough. 

[thebiglebowski]

A few suggestions:

Never buy a bike on eBay - focus on Craigslist where you can see it in person.

Most areas have a local cycling list serve that buys and sells. After that check sites like Slowtwitch where those selling are anal and legit invested in the community.

Find an indoor trainer - I recommend a Kurt kinetic for cost effectiveness. Then get on TrainerRoad or the new sensation zwift. A 20 dollar motion stick and 30 dollar garmin cadence meter will have you going. Knowing the metrics of your training will help a ton.

If buying used see if you can get a power meter in the deal - it's hard but possible.

Finally, at 1500 you might consider stretching to 1800 or 2k and look at new Scott bikes - great value there.

This is all assuming you plan to keep riding but once you get invested you can stay set with no further cash for a

Long while.

Also, Get some body glide and Vaseline and do all you can to avoid saddle soars.

Good luck man

 

 

Appreciate the advice. Just trying to talk this through. Why would you recommend a 2k Scott assuming that this could be had for a little over 1k (probably)?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291382721135?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

The guy has 50k feedback at near 100% -- not worried about the bike being jacked. Yes, I could test ride something in person but I'm just not confident enough in my ability to discern between different bikes in terms of form+fit. My criteria are 58cm (I'm 6 foot tall, and that seems to be the standard advice based on size) and I'm leaning carbon fiber for weight considerations. Not sure how to evaluate forks, brakes, etc.. just trusting that price is an indicator of overall quality of components.

 

Also if I buy used and don't like for some reason after putting some miles on it, I am confident I can sell fairly quickly and only lose 10-20% of what I paid (if anything). If I go new and don't like it, I'm going to take a 50% hit on the aftermarket.

 

I'd prefer craigslist over ebay, but I've looked around on CL and there's not much inventory right now. I'll check the other sites.

 

Anyways, that's where my head is at.

[albie007]

I am 6ft and can ride a 56cm comfortable with the right handlebar and stem combo. So that's not necessarily an indicator. Neither is a blind purchase based on price. You need hands on research.

[jerseydave77]

I got screwed via eBay on a bike and have heard enough nightmares from others that I can't recommend it. You want to take the plunge - I'm sure plenty have had it work out just fine. There are a lot of shady people using the Bay for bikes, this is why I prefer the community cycling groups like Slowtwitch et al - they care about cycling as a whole. I bought a nice pair of used wheels there at a good price and haven't had an issue.

 

The bike you link to looks great. I have an aversion as noted above that I've also had backed up by others. I see the feedback ratings but I certainly didn't make my purchase somewhere with a bad rep.

 

Do you have a relationship with a local bike shop already? And have you been measured to ensure that the frame is right? 

 

If you have a good one - take a shot, get the bike tuned up as soon as you get it. If you save some cash in that purchase consider getting that indoor trainer and start logging some miles.

 

Good luck. 

[jerseydave77]

I'm 6'1" - I ride a 60-61cm in road bike and 56cm in tri bike. 

 

Those centimeters are significant. On thing to consider in the size is also your flexibility. With my messed up back it makes a difference.

[thebiglebowski]

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.bicycle-riding-for-boomers.com/images/roadbikesizingchart.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bicycle-riding-for-boomers.com/bicycle-sizing.html&h=248&w=395&tbnid=jNDi9RvYtHnAhM:&zoom=1&docid=lNm08Ik_0FF4RM&ei=XKD8VKusBYeqyQTftYKgBw&tbm=isch&ved=0CDMQMygAMAA

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=bike+sizing&biw=1429&bih=787&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=WqD8VO_2D82QyASdyoDoDQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#imgdii=_&imgrc=mHPI5u7LGy-kcM%253A%3B9-mZbK-6vB18IM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi42.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fe341%252FDoohickie%252F09Cycling%252FBikeSizingChart.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bikeforums.net%252Fclassic-vintage-bicycles-what-s-worth-appraisals-inquiries%252F697247-80-s-centurion-le-mans-rs.html%3B700%3B906

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=bike+sizing&biw=1429&bih=787&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=WqD8VO_2D82QyASdyoDoDQ&ved=0CCwQsAQ&dpr=1#imgdii=_&imgrc=5Ot_78Z9_iWiXM%253A%3BuIkKpipBAN-ZsM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.goinggoingbike.com%252Fmedia%252Fwysiwyg%252FRoad-Bike-Sizing-Guide-1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.goinggoingbike.com%252Fggb_bike_sizing_guide%3B460%3B280

 

All the sizing charts put me at a 58 (maybe a 59, but it seems like the majority of bike manufacturers stick with the even numbers). How do you know if a bike is the perfect fit for you? Obviously if you can't reach the bottom of the pedal stroke or your knees hit the handlebars it's no good. I have a feeling that I'll be able to pedal fine on anything 56cm to 60cm, at least if I go to a bike shop and take something around the block. Feel pretty confident that 58cm is the right one for me.

 

I'm thinking about getting the training gear but I still plan to do weight training, already have an elliptical, plan on biking outside once the weather is nice (maybe bike to work as much as possible, but I need to work out a system for carrying laptop, clothes, lunch, etc and not being a stinky mess with sweat when I get there). So kinda weighing all that, I'm not sure how many hours I'll put on it just pedalling in the basement. Maybe.

[ajxd]

Yeah it's more than just height. I'm 5'10" but due to leg length VS torso length, I was fitted for a 54cm. Fitting in person is waaaaaay different than by charts online.

[thebiglebowski]

Yeah it's more than just height. I'm 5'10" but due to leg length VS torso length, I was fitted for a 54cm. Fitting in person is waaaaaay different than by charts online.

 

Some of the charts also include leg length. I came out at 32" (standing straight up, floor to crotch). I'd have to be off by two inches or so for that to put me at a 60cm bike, of which there is no way (unless the chart is wrong).

 

I'm really good with a 58cm bike and if somehow that is off, I am buying on the used market so I can always sell for approximately the same amount of money and move on. My question is just what 58cm bike to buy. Currently leaning towards those ones on ebay. Seller has as perfect a reputation as you can possibly have and they seem to be fairly good quality from what I can find online. Just need to figure out what my max bid is.

[jerseydave77]

Post the link to your top-choice. Let's look at the year, groupset, wheels etc that are coming on it and compare. 

[tooclosetosee]

I ride and race mostly mountain bikes. I own steel(2), carbon fiber(1), and AL(3) bikes. Frame material isn't that important. All materials have their own characteristics and pros and cons. Brand of bike is not very important. They are all going to "perform" and "ride" about the same, and what you are really buying is their warranty reputation. Even the groupset is not all that important. With todays technology pretty much everything expect the super low end stuff is going to shift and hold up reasonably nice. 

 

Fit on the bike is very important, and you can pretty much only do this at a bike shop. The only exception is unless you REALLY know what you are talking about in terms of fit and can look at all the dimensions and determine if it will work for you or not. From a bike shop you can pick the best bike that fits you the best, has the best overall groupset, looks the coolest to you, and for the best price. I would pick a bike shop that is not only friendly, but not trying to nickel and dime you every step of the way. 

 

I have probably well over $10k invested in mountain bikes, and my road bike is one that I traded a cheap garden tiller for. It's a 1985 Schwinn Super Le Tour made out of steel and fairly original with friction shifters. I put new wheels on it (EA70s) and made it 9 speed (thanks to friction shifters aren't indexed). This bike rides really well, and since I'm not racing it, it performs perfectly for what I want it to do. 

 

I personally own two motobecane bikes (AL) and although that have been cheap and have definitely been good bikes. I would prefer an AL Scott bike over a CF moto bike any day due to that they probably tuned the Scott Al frame pretty well and the warranty behind Scott. 

 

Saying you are going to buy carbon fiber and not going to crash is like saying you don't wear a seatbelt because you aren't planning on crashing. Don't buy a bike that is too expensive to replace. 

 

Wheels are very important. A nice set of wheels will not only be lighter, but they will be easier to true and stay true, and ride much better than the oem wheels that come on bikes. Often times super expensive bikes still come with crap wheels because they assume they are going to be taken off anyways and upgraded. 

 

Carbon Fiber Pro - Lightest, Stiffest, able to mold/tune ride characteristics easily. 

Carbon Fiber Con - Does not take impact damage well. Expensive. Catastrophic failure potential with hidden issues. I would make sure I had a good warranty with a carbon frame due to the expense. 

 

Titanium Pro - Light, but usually have to use more material to get stiffness and ride equal to steel. 

Titanium Con - Expensive, often custom made. 

 

Steel Pro - Rides really well with a nice damping quality, has the best longevity as long as no rust, frame can be slightly bent and bent back without any issues. 

Steel Con - Heavy relative to other frame types. Can rust if not taken care of. 

 

Aluminum Pro - Relatively light, cheap, and strong. Able to mold/tune ride characteristics easily. Durable in the event of crashes. 

Aluminum Con - Harsh ride, brittle material that does not have longevity of steel or Ti, and can not be slightly bent and then bent back. Once Al fatigues, it is done. 

 

For someone who isn't racing but wants to start riding fairly seriously I would buy aluminum because it seems to be the best all around frame type there is. It won't give you the best ride, but it does most things well. I would also go to a bike shop and ride around on bikes and pick one that feels the best and is the best size. After that if riding is something that you want to take seriously, then a wheel upgrade would be next up. I wouldn't buy wheels for less than $400 or so. 

 

So there ya go....

[thebiglebowski]

Post the link to your top-choice. Let's look at the year, groupset, wheels etc that are coming on it and compare. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291382721135?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[thebiglebowski]

^ appreciate the super long answer but I could easily replace a $1k bike (I just don't believe in spending more than that on one) and am locked into going used. I'll take my chances the original holds up for a long time and if it doesn't, I can buy a replacement and probably still have less invested than going retail.