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If you had 200$ what player would you buy?


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I almost forgot that I wanted to offer some helpful advice to the OP.  If you're definitely leaning toward a $200 vintage TT, I would strongly consider an AR-XA, the godfather of all suspended turntables.  The XA laid the foundation upon which companies like Linn Sondek and Sota built their decks and to this day it remains a strong competitor in the world of affordable vintage audio.

 

You can easily find an AR-XA in stock form for under $200 and right off the bat, it's a competent performer.  But with a couple easy (and cheap) tweaks, you can elevate its performance to another level.  Beyond that, if you're willing to spend a modest amount of money, you can get an XA to kick the shit out of turntables costing three, four, even five times as much.

 

And that's the great thing about the XA; it provides an excellent avenue for future upgrades.  If you know what you're doing - or at least know someone else who does - there's a really high ceiling in terms modifications.

 

Off the top of my head, I can think of four guys who, if you sent them an AR-XA, could get that thing performing at a really high level for less than $200 in labor and parts ... and probably not even that much money.

 

PM me if you want additional info.  Here's some good reading / viewing in the meantime ...

 

http://www.avguide.com/review/the-ten-most-significant-turntables-all-time-tas-216

http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=14435

www.vinylnirvana.com

http://johnsweather.com/Turntable1.html

http://johnsweather.com/Turntable.html

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How shitty is this turntable?

http://www.numark.com/product/ttusb

 

I had it for about a week.  It was a absolute POS.  Got everything hooked up and dialed in the tracking force and started using it.  A handful of records later the sound quality dropped off greatly.  Checked everything over and played records I played earlier again and they sounded awful.  Re-checked the tracking force and it was something like 5 grams when the supplied cart was dialed in by me at 3 or something.  Whatever it recommended.  Checked it again and it was a different number again.  Checked my scale and it was accurate.  So the tone arm was all screwed up and impossible to get dialed in and stay accurate.  Wasn't my first table so I know what I was doing and not accidentally moving the counter weight.  Might have just been a defect, but was enough for me to go a different route.

 

Returned it and never looked back.    

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I've got the Technics and I get really annoyed reading every thread about records popping, skipping, scraping etc. I only have the Sl1210 and an Ortofon Red and a small Behringer PreAmp - So not a massive dedicated setup for vinyl and 99.9% of everything I own plays great. 

 

The tone arm, when setup properly, compensates for most imperfections, especially slight warps without any impact on quality. 

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I've got the Technics and I get really annoyed reading every thread about records popping, skipping, scraping etc. I only have the Sl1210 and an Ortofon Red and a small Behringer PreAmp - So not a massive dedicated setup for vinyl and 99.9% of everything I own plays great. 

 

The tone arm, when setup properly, compensates for most imperfections, especially slight warps without any impact on quality. 

 

Popping is almost always caused by either a dirty/moldy/dusty/damaged record or, in less common circumstances, a poor pressing.  Skipping can be caused by a damaged record, improper table setup, or a pressing defect.  Scraping (WTF?!?!) is likely a very old, beat up stylus and/or record.  Assuming the tonearm allows for changes to the tracking force, none of those things would be the fault of the table design.

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