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What's your latest purchase?


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I picked up an AT-440mla and a shure stylus force gauge a couple of weeks ago. I also bought a couple of different Denon receivers to replace the Onkyo TX-NR609 that was sent in for service but they both ended up sounding like shit with my room/setup so back they went. I'm still debating on trying something else at this point or calling it good for now since the Onkyo is back and working fine.

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I went to the audio jumble but it wasn't as good as previous ones. I haven't been for a year or so and it's changed quite a bit.

 

There was some nice kit there but it was a lot more expensive than previous events and there was a lot more dealer to dealer trading before the public was let in.

 

I still picked up a few bits:

 

Tascam CD-RW750

Nakamichi BX300

Linn Basik Plus tonearm

A boxed Pioneer PL400

 

Nowhere near the amount I usually come away with but still a good day.

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I'm probably buying a new amp/receiver...mine (Denon PMA 510 AE, which you can't buy anywhere anymore....WTF?!) is making strange (bass-y/muffled) sounds, no treble or mids at all...have to say that it was located in a room with very high air humidity for one night! In the beginning I thought I connected the cable of my speakers wrongly, but after re-checking and re-cabling I still had the same issue.

 

Sent it to a repairing company last week and curious to see if they manage to fix the problem. If not, I'll have to spend money again :(

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I hate you. haha.

 

But can you elaborate on their sound? If I were to drop $$$$ on a flagship it probably would be the LCD3

 

I traded a pair of Grado GS1000i's torwards the cost of these, and those were my headphones for the last couple of years and are my main reference point. 

I would say that the main thing I notice about the LCD-3's is that they arent as piercing in the high end as the Grado's were. In fact if i had to sum up the LCD-3's i would say that they are overall very balanced and warm sounding with an incredibly articulate sound stage. I am driving them with a tube powered Mcintosh C220 that only adds to the warmth in most situations. 

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Not understanding your issue. It's a discontinued model...if you want to buy another one for some reason, Denon now produces the PMA520AE. They're probably very similar.

 

The PMA520AE looks pretty similar, but it's not...the 520 has two inputs (+ & -) on each side for the speakers; the 510 had four for bi-wiring...

 

PMA 510

max_denon_pma_510ae_03.jpg

 

 

PMA520

pma-520_conexiones.jpg

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Bi wiring is generally pretty useless. Also, removing A/B A+B features likely prevents at least a few consumers from burning out their amps.

 

I would assume the 510 is designed for bi amping, some amps are just intended to be used with two separate sets of speakers rather than bi amping one set. People tend to fry their outputs bi amping speakers from amplifiers that are not intended for it.

 

Bi wiring is wiring from both high and low inputs on a speaker from a single output on an amplifier and yes it's useless. Bi amping on the other hand works well.

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I would assume the 510 is designed for bi amping, some amps are just intended to be used with two separate sets of speakers rather than bi amping one set. People tend to fry their outputs bi amping speakers from amplifiers that are not intended for it.

Bi wiring is wiring from both high and low inputs on a speaker from a single output on an amplifier and yes it's useless. Bi amping on the other hand works well.

I'm pretty fuzzy on this stuff but isn't the 8 ohm min on the a+b config a potential problem for a casual user?

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I'm pretty fuzzy on this stuff but isn't the 8 ohm min on the a+b config a potential problem for a casual user?

 It depends what you are driving with it but generally no, the manufacturer is giving you the information you need on the back of the amp and you just need to select your speakers accordingly.

 

A speaker with a crossover that is designed to be bi amped should give the same impedance across both sets of terminals otherwise the amplifier will see different loads, so as long as it's 8ohm or above you are fine.

 

The fried outputs thing really started to come about when speakers with split crossovers started to appear in great numbers and people tried to drive them from amps that had 2 sets of speaker outs that were really designed to run a or b rather than a+b, these sorts of amps actually only have one set of outputs which are shared so when you drive two loads together you are making the thing work much harder than it wants and with the really poor amps by running the two outputs together you were effectively halving the impedance the amplifier is trying to drive.

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